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The Great Chinese Adventure – South-West
#china #kunming #travel #moveaborad #adventure
The first mission to Mars did not expect to find craters and river valleys, and yet they did. The first mission to Jupiter didn’t expect to find ocean worlds and volcano worlds, but they did.
Alan Stern Tweet
Previous posts in the series: The Great Chinese Adventure – the Commencement & A Halloween-birthday in Shanghai
It’s ridiculous how well the above quote mirrors my experience of moving to China. It started from me not even expecting to visit that part of the world, other than maybe Japan, and it turned into a strong zeal-like desire to live along that part of the Earth for years, before finally settling at a completely different, not yet explored part of the planet. Starting as someone who’s about to visit perhaps their sixth country on the list, growing into a travel enthusiast, locked onto living as a local around all of Earth. Creating, from a student, not knowing what to do in life, an unstoppable traveler, a volcano of upcoming experiences, to be transferred and put to paper, at each and every single part of the globe. Having wanted it or not, I will forever stay grateful to my Great Chinese Adventure, and wish the best to everyone whom I met along the way, as well as who reads about it.

Imagine traveling in November from Shanghai to Beijing for a couple of days. Nothing much, just an extended-family outing. The temperature difference is significant, as you move from 15°C / 59°F to around 5°C / 41°F. After the stay, you go back to Shanghai to sleep over, and then catch your plane to Hong Kong – going suddenly to 25°C / 77°F. The fun thing about it all, I got to ride the super-fast train between Shanghai and Beijing, running at speeds close to an airplane. The quick ride lasts only around six hours. And then the following day, flying all the way to the south of the continent – I can’t even remember how long the flight to Hong Kong really took. At least I got to ride the maglev (it’s short for magnetic levitation, not a Russian last name, as I originally thought) train, warping me from the Shanghai Pudong International Airport back to the city center where I lived, in a matter of minutes. This post shouldn’t even be about that piece of the experience, but Kunming and Tengchong, right? Yes. But I’ve given you an amazing idea for a travel sport. Thank me later, but do send pics!
Now imagine going to the south-western border of China, in the middle of a cold December, to visit Kunming and the Tengchong spa, at the cliff of an inactive volcano. The temperatures were so cold, that at night one needed to cover their T-shirt with something containing sleeves. Something light was in order. Fun fact, the private jet pictures are from this trip. Now this truly was something spectacular! But not even as remotely as the experience itself. Each part of China tells a different part of the same story, a different piece of the puzzle, and the overall impression differs among regions. I must have told you how each major Chinese city is more dissimilar to one another than two average countries in Europe. This goes much deeper than just the plain geography – this is weaved into the subculture, the sublanguage, the food, human relationships and sense of importance. Although, altogether, it is the same country, with the same general beliefs, overall understanding of life and mission, and common grounds, these subtle differences provide a feeling of spending time in far-away lands (from one another). Even the locals look slightly different from the ones in other regions, as if they share only a part of common ancestry. This is another reason why crossing China off the list after having visited only one or two cities is completely and utterly wrong. And it’s another reason why everyone should feel invited to visit this eastern marvel!

Kunming was only a quick stop-over destination, flying from Shanghai. Although Chinese traffic infrastructure is highly developed, it is absolutely impossible to expect each of the airports to be connected with every other one. The vision of Kunming, per se, was a quick glimpse of a smaller Chinese metropolis (only about 8,5M citizens) and the capital of Yunnan province. But this brings me to an interesting point – the word “nan” in “Yunnan” signifies the South. “Yun” signifies the name of the mountain range, whereas Yunnan is located in its South. This is very common in Chinese geographical names – Shanghai means literally “on ocean” (“shang” + “hai”), Beijing literally translates to “northern province” (“bei” + “jing”), and this pretty much runs across the board. In fact, Tokyo in Chinese is “Dongjing”, literally meaning “northern capital”.
Anyway, the city was a very nice, welcoming and friendly stop-over. We did not have much time to go around, but were able to have a quick stay at a fancy hotel, overlooking a major lake – known as Kunming Lake. It’s vast in surface and covers about ¾ of the Summer Palace grounds. The lake’s history actually shows it was man-made, and not natural, being utilized as a water source for both the city needs, and irrigation of fields, for around 3,500 years. This artificial lake was utilized for longer than most nation-states have been around – just for comparison, and in case your history and geography lessons at school were as “advanced” as mine. Anyway, the hotel was so exquisite that breakfast options offered something I called “pig chips”. It’s a local Serbian specialty (I don’t even remember ever hearing about it in the neighboring Bosnia, let alone anywhere further away), which I really thought no one else makes anywhere else around the globe. This is literally chips made from pork fat. Apparently, it’s also made in China and has an actual name – pork floss. I’ll still prefer to call it “pig chips”. And nonetheless, it really made breakfast a higher level than in any other 5* hotel.

Tengchong is a completely different set of life parameters, including food, drinks, culture and overall lifestyle. With “only” around 600k denizens, I’m quite positive it’s considered a small village in China. It sits atop an extinguished volcano crater, that is nowadays covered in foliage. The volcano itself is over 2,5 km / 9,4k feet tall and the locals usually run horse-transportation to the opening. I personally had no idea what an efficient and hard-core exercise horseback riding is! Despite overall aches in my whole body, the trip to the top was more than worth the trouble. No camera can capture such a breathtaking view, and I can guarantee that visiting China just to inhale this air is going to be worth your while.
Another thing I absolutely loved about this place are the volcanic thermal waters. As a huge fan of spa and spending time inside thermal pools, this was a dream-come-true for me. The hotel was divided into houses, and each of them had a pool of its own. Nightfall, of course, was the corresponding time for this activity. The water temperature would normally be around 39°C / 102,2°F. Although the night is colder in December, the warmth of the water creates a kind of protective aura from the cold, allowing guests to freely circulate between the pool and the house. If you’re someone who just wants to live in peace, outside of civilization, with your cats, Tengchong is the perfect place for you. Especially if you intend to drench yourself in spa every night.

This adventure was short but more than sweet. Intact nature (for the most part), with peace and quiet around, private jets, multiple hotels in several days, lakes, spas, newfound experiences, summer at the beginning of winter… This is what I hear when Michael Bublé sings about the start of Christmas time. The magic of this newly, accidentally discovered location, overwhelmed each aspect of my traveling spirit. There are no words in any human language to describe the unique feeling of South-Western Chinese province of Yunnan. It flows into one of the biggest reasons why I always recommend visiting unexplored cities and villages of new countries, rather than just the popular ones.
Don’t forget to read the next post in the Great Chinese Adventure series.

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[…] Previous posts in the series: The Great Chinese Adventure – the Commencement, A Halloween-birthday in Shanghai & The Great Chinese Adventure – South-West. […]
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