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Sarajevo – the city where worlds collide
#travel #inspiration #experience #challenge #sarajevo
What a nice city. Would be a shame if something happened here that would change the course of history.
A few years back, I read a book by Amin Maalouf, called “Les Echelles du Levant” – roughly translating to “Ports of the Levant”. And this is where I first saw that Sarajevo was mentioned as a part of this area of the world, not completely determined by physical borders. Along with a number of places in the Middle East, Sarajevo was standing tall and equivalent. Had I not gone to it by accident, I would not understand why. Fortunately, thanks to the coincidence taking me there, not only did I learn this, but have also had some of the best time of my life. On multiple occasions! In fact, one time I went to Sarajevo twice in a matter of a few weeks – both times for just one day, mostly to eat and have good conversations with friends. And also to enjoy the flow. Talking about how great the food is, of course, is obsolete. (Not many pictures of food will be available though, as I’m always too busy eating to shoot photos.)
Let’s kick the story off, talking about a rare jewel, the center of which is at its physical outskirts. Entering through a tunnel, within a high hill, we unknowingly move through the geographical border of the city, immediately reaching Bascarsija, the center of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s capital. This is quite unusual, as most places in the world have their centers positioned – in the physical center. Come to think of it, I could write a whole post on just quotes about Sarajevo, where one states it resembles a playful child – and this is the actual feeling you’ll have throughout your voyage into this beautiful port of the Levant. Not a real port though, but you understand the metaphor.
The center itself will be packed with shops, selling local goods, souvenirs, different relics or traditional goods, lots and lots of food, or whatever delights anyone can find useful. I would not know what to tell you, which shop to go to first. All of them are great, and offer an atmosphere of their own, something out of this world. My first comparison was – this is the most similar city to Istanbul, yet utterly different, starting from its core. The only real similarity to either Istanbul or any other city in this region is the spirit of the Levant, something that can be inhaled in this area of the world only. Yet still, it shares no other similarities. In fact, the city looks like a collision of a Western capital, such as Vienna or Stockholm, with an Eastern capital, such as the mentioned Istanbul. It is filled with various intricacies from top to bottom, left to right.
You can easily spend one whole day in Sarajevo without leaving its center – Bascarsija. (Pardon the lack of diacritics, we don’t want to ruin the font.) Are those lamps like the one from Aladdin? Yes. Is that marketplace just like the one in Istanbul? Yes. Is there pomegranate juice sold on the streets, like in the city of Petra in Jordan? Of course! Yet, is that Nikola Tesla sitting in front of a café? Technically no, that’s a statue of him. Does that Academy building look like it was shipped from Vienna? Mhm. Is that the eternal flame, not from the Bangles’ hit, but from the Olympics? Yes, it is! How can all that coexist in such a small area, and live all together as one? Magic? Until a better reasoning is found, I’m sticking to magic.
PS. Speaking about the magic, do drink the water from the tap next to the mosque in Bascarsija. It is said that anyone who drinks it will come back again to Sarajevo. It worked for me. Thank me later.
Where do we begin? You can start from the old faucet, apparently brought into this area from the East. Similar ones can be found around the Balkans, but in this city, this kind of edifice finds its home under that part of the skies. You will be able to see the influence from the East, mostly Turkish, throughout Sarajevo, as well as the whole Bosnia and Herzegovina. Frequent mosques, cannons atop hills marking commencement of certain religious rituals, and my favorite – ayran, the milk-based beverage popular in the Middle East. It broke my heart to discover that not even far away, in my hometown of Banjaluka, people generally had no idea ayran existed. No need to ask why I love coming to Sarajevo as much as I do!
Countless coffee shops and cafes in the vicinity of the faucet provide top-notch coffee, as well as other beverages and sweets. If you come for your visit in the morning, you may want to start your daily routine right here, in one of them. On the other hand, if you are hungry, better opt for a bakery, and try some burek (if you like ground meat – which I don’t) or some pie made with cheese, or herbs and cheese. And don’t forget to drink ayran with it, of course! There is a local saying that a pie made with minced meat is called burek, while all others are just pies. Also, it is said that people in Bosnia and Herzegovina will be trully offended if you call any non-meat type of pie a burek. However, the first time around, when I ordered burek, the nice bakers asked me “made with what”. Guess the legend is not so true after all – unlike the legend of hospitality in this area, that one is a complete truth!
My first time in the city was marked with a visit to the spring of the Bosnia River, surrounded by nearby mountains and hills. Suffice to say it truly is a magnificent sight how that massive body of running water is generated from small and shallow ponds, pools even, situated in what seems to be nothing more than a tastefully organized park. Visits in the springtime will yield the best background for you to brag on social media. The greenery truly is majestic in this time of the year, when all the leaves are at their strongest green, and all the flowers in fragrant bloom. For those of you whose legs feel tired – I’d also say whose stomachs feel empty, but that will not happen in this city – there is even a restaurant within the area.
But let’s come back to our road next to the faucet. Not sure which street to take, as many different roads will show you various sights for sore eyes. Let’s walk to the right, outside of the central area, passing by the eternal fire. It’s funny that fire is still called “eternal” after records of it being extinguished in the past (forgot the year, no hate please). Still, it is a monument to the Olympic games taking part in Yugoslavia, and this exact city – while a number (I lost count) of modern-day countries still used to be one. Even with the country of Yugoslavia long gone, the flame remains to remind us of what used to stand there as a superpower, at a point in time.
Walk further, through streets ornamented with flowers of all shapes and sizes. Not far away, you will reach the train station. But more importantly, you will see the Avaz Tower, one of the highest buildings in this region. I overheard someone say it is the Bosnian Burj Khalifa. The entrance is charged (if memory serves it is around 1 EUR / $1.2), but the view is astonishing. Of course, I ran a complete photo session on the rooftop. Don’t be surprised why it’s barred – feel free to guess what the bars are preventing. If you disregard the bad mojo of the previous sentence, you can look around the whole tower, allowing you to view Sarajevo from the bird’s perspective – each and every part of it. From the top, you can see how well combined the eastern and western elements are, as far as eyes can see. Although you don’t need to climb the 30+ floors on foot, it’s good to know that you can grab a cup of coffee right here – with a view!
When you read my posts, it sounds like Sarajevo is only good for food and drinks. Lol. Let me disillusion you from it – Sarajevo is in the top 3 places in the world, for food and drinks. And thus, no one should be skipping opportunities to consume some. However, it’s up to the chill vibe of the area, that allows you to wander carelessly (no courage needed here) and spend some high-quality time with your friends, eating and drinking on the go. The one day spent in the city will not seem incessant or overbearing, even with all the food consumed. Recently, I was asked what’s so great about Bosnia and Herzegovina, and my first answer was – food. It’s probably my third favorite – right after Turkish and Chinese – but the heart of the country, of course, offers some of the best dishes you can taste. Countless blogs offer excellent advice on what to eat in Sarajevo, so I can skip that part – whichever restaurant you sit in, will provide a great assortment of flavors. (And this comes from a person who cooks their own ramen, so you know it’s correct.)
Let’s circle back to beginning, but taking another path, down the Miljacka River. Stop to see a standard coastline-like catholic church, looking directly at a modern-age shopping mall. In my head, this is the exact line that splits the West from the East. This is the place where the collision of the cultures was the strongest. Take time to stand in awe, and then keep going, as the river can be spotted from this point. You will see endless bridges, and you will be surprised at the depth of the canal, taking the water away from the center. But what are all those hanging sculptures, connecting the two banks? They are envoys of the Academy of Arts, and you are about to spot on your right!
Moving along, you can also spot the City Hall, which brings us back to our starting point. On top of nearby hills, you can spot one of the most famous hotels in Sarajevo, as well as the cannons that mark the start of certain religious rituals. This very beginning of the city contains a plethora of sites, including mosques, mountains, stores, bridges, a cable car, and endless other buildings and monuments. The first walking tour around, I knew I discovered my favorite city in the Balkans! No magnitude or grandness of any other place in the vicinity can compare itself to the uniqueness and splendor that Sarajevo has to offer. Friendliness, hospitality, love all around, ensuring everyone feels exactly where they need to be – because everyone must visit this treasure of a city, at least once in their lifetime.
Finding quotes about Sarajevo was one of the most heart-breaking experiences for me. So many of them are poisoned with hatred, stories of war and terror, and general lack of care for the city. I was so appalled by this fact, I decided to choose a quote from an Internet meme. So many poets, writers, artists, and no one had anything nice to say about the most splendid place in this part of the world? Let me correct that mistake. And do feel free to quote me, if needed, on every occasion.
“Sarajevo is the center of civilization – it is the line where the East meets the West, kisses it smoothly, and envelops it in its own warm embrace. It is a city where even the most contrary sides find a common ground, cohabitating as one, in a symphony of love and unity. Sarajevo exists in all of us – we simply need to uncover it and show it to the world. This is why everyone must come for a visit at least once in their lifetime – if not once a month. Sarajevo lives on, as the city where two worlds collide and become one – a happy and content one.” – Courageous Wanderer
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