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A World Wonder – or a world of wonders
#travel #inspiration #experience #challenge #jordan
Being popular comes when you have everything. But to be liked, it means that you must be treating people with respect and you must be showing kindness toward them.
Before I continue with my story, have you ever googled “quotes by Jordanian authors”? (Anyone who said “yes”, please post it in the comments – I’d like to know if anyone has done it.) Whether you have, or not, please do. You will not believe how mindful and eye-opening they are. I make sure to incorporate important messages into my posts, and I like good words to be heard far and wide. Normally, I don’t know all of these quotes by heart, I look some of them up (and verify the ones I already know, not to butcher anyone’s mental dialog). But what I keep finding are some of the most amazing and beautifully combined pieces of verbiage that really have me thinking deeply about their meaning. Just a token of appreciation for all the inspiring people out there, this time especially for the Jordanian authors!
Now, where were we? Ah, yes, the 3.5 hour walk to the opposite end of Petra. One way. If you are not someone who likes walking, you’re not up for a fun time. I mean, you can always ride a donkey, but where’s the adrenaline rush in that? (Even if we ignore moral implications here.) The rocks along the way are filled with catacombs. Right now, they barely provide quick shelter from the scorching heat. In ancient times, when humans actually inhabited this place, I honestly have no idea how they would survive. And remember that this comes from someone who adores the desert. In fact, I recently spoke to a friend who was visiting Texas – he concluded I would love it there! Still, be warned, Petra is not for the faint of heart.
Flags! Flags everywhere! Did you know that in the top 10 highest flagpoles on Earth, Jordan has two entries? Raghadan Flagpole in Amman, at 126.8 m / 416 Ft, and the Aqaba Flagpole, visible from Egypt, Israel and Saudi Arabia, at 130 m / 430 Ft. One would probably wonder why they would set so many flags even scattered around the desert. On the other hand, it really represents the present of Jordan, as a unique gateway, where yesterday and tomorrow hold hands. And what I really loved about these flags, unlike in some countries, they really don’t seem pretentious or threatening. They express the beautiful and rich heritage and culture of the Kingdom of Jordan, inviting all potential visitors to have an experience of it.
I probably didn’t mention this, don’t drink coffee before entering Petra. Or energy drinks. Let alone both combined. The Sun and the climbing activity will raise your blood pressure and adrenalin levels over the roof. Just make sure to hydrate yourself a lot. This stone city will provide countless ruins, shadows, catacombs and sights for a good photo. Just don’t stay in one place for too long. It’s funny to see how so many people (and donkeys) stream forward to either of the two ends of Petra. It resembles a rush hour, yet a fluid one, constantly moving and not blocking anyone’s passage. The café owners and workers will truly have you wondering how they don’t feel grumpy commuting to their workplace. And all of this commotion will be zested with a pinch of the atmosphere of the Orient. Marvelous!
Once you finally reach the end of Petra, coming back will be less time-consuming. You will probably not stop by anything to take a picture while returning. It took us about 3.5 hours to the end, and another 2.5 hours back to the entrance gate. Come to think of it, that’s quite some physical activity! Especially in the desert conditions, the sand and stone burning from below. Not recommendable to the faint of heart, but highly recommended to anyone seeking adventure off the beaten path. (Despite the fact Petra is the most beaten part of the Jordanian path.) You can even buy some souvenirs within the gated community (pun intended), whether at the entrance or deeper into the ancient city in the rock. But I can confirm you’ll need to save up some of the money on beverages. Donkeys make icy water deliveries throughout the day, as (one would assume) there is no plumbing within the city. What I loved here, again, is how unique and timeless everything is – apparently not rebuilt as time went by. You have to love Jordan for this!
After three consecutive life-changing days (which felt like years, by the way), we needed some rest and a little urban exploration activity. The night in Petra was spent regaining energy with life-bringing sleep. And the sleep was so good, I can’t even remember anything from or about the hotel. Not even if we had breakfast. I guess that’s a great measure of a successful adventure – no power to do anything other than shower and drop into bed, almost as if fainting for the following eight hours. We decided to spend the last day in the capital, Amman. A little exploration in the daylight (as well as sleep at noon, let’s be honest) and fancy food at nighttime, just to spend time observing local customs and feeling one with the heart of this magical civilization of humble, welcoming and loving humans. No wonder I said “this is what home should feel like”!
In one of my previous blog posts, you probably saw a picture of me in the Roman Amphitheatre in Jordan. What made it utterly unique, and I reason why the feeling was not Ancient Rome under occupation, but under unity – everyone called it the Roman Amphitheater! This is their heritage, yet from a different country of ancestry. The Jordanians did not build it. They did not feel the need to call it the Jordanian Amphitheater. To some of you, it may come as a surprise why I’m endorsing this so much. However, I’ve seen so many occasions where people simply stole the work of others, priding themselves on it. The Jordanians don’t do this, the Jordanians are nice, welcoming and honest people.
Climbing the Amphitheater staircases was not even remotely as scary as trying to walk down. One quick piece of advice – don’t look into the distance when descending. Just look directly in front of your feet – you wouldn’t want to take a bad step here. However, you must know that the view from the top is truly astonishing. Oh, and have I mentioned that Jordan pass takes you into the Amphitheater charge-free? Well, now I have.
Other Amman activities included walking around its steep and mostly narrow streets, exploring shops for souvenirs and gifts, and of course, a fancy dinner in one of the top three classy restaurants in the Jordanian capital (lamb, of course)! The funniest thing – I forgot the restaurant’s name… Or better yet, I didn’t even bother to remember it. I was astonished with the choice of food presented to the guests. As someone who absolutely adores Middle-Eastern cuisine, I was spending most of the time eating doner or an equivalent, usually made with different kinds of meat. Don’t ask about the exact names of the dishes I had in the capital – I have no idea. I did not spend time learning about how it was made (could have, though), only invested time feeling the symphony of flavors of these rare and scarce ingredients. It truly was something majestic!
The saddest part had come – parting ways with the friendliest place on Earth I’d visited. Sitting in the cab, on our way back to the airport, we were exchanging stories from the past several days, which gave us an impression of a lifetime. All that sand, all those rocks, all that scarcity bearing an extremely lively and magical environment… Ancient Rome living in the world of today, draped in flags of newer colors. Another endless desert, where the sea kisses the sand, inhaling life into the vast space of another world. No wonder so many great movies were shot in this exact land! But even the airport, our last destination before flying back to Europe, came with its charms and beauty, again showing why there is magic every step of the way in the marvelous Kingdom of Jordan.
As my trilogy concludes, I’ll tell you my reasons why I will visit this great country again. Although I’ve mentioned them so many times – another night in Wadi Rum, and another swim in the Dead Sea. (And sure, a summer holiday in November, in Aqaba!) Again, the same motifs – the desert and the sea. The two elements forever shaping the landscapes of this truly unique place, explicable only with true emotions, beyond the comprehension of words. If you still haven’t got a hint of why this is one of the most popular destinations off the beaten path, perhaps the time has come for you to find out. Anyone who’s asked me for a recommendation, and thus visited Jordan, has been nothing but thankful. It is your time to learn why.
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[…] Do you want to know what there is to see in the beautiful city of Petra and how our journey kept unveiling? Stay tuned for the third part and the finale of my big Jordan adventure. Until next Tuesday! […]
[…] – The journey of Jordan, pt. 3. […]
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